Chef Enlivens  
Giovanni’s Fare

 

Bv Tout BIVINS

restaurant for ()l'l'.\l's

.\'o\eniber issue. 'lhe truth is,
chefs should not agree to submit
restaurant fL‘\‘lC\\s during foliage in
Vcrtnont. Bad idea‘. But the tourist
season has ended and l am free to
dine around again.

.‘vly spouse and I made
the pleasant ride from Bethel to
Ascutney for dinner at this new
restaurant. We weren't evtaetly sure
what to expect. as we have ne\cr
spent any time in ."\scutne_\ If you
are looking for a cliartntng local
restaurant serving good ltahan
food. reasonably priced, and vs ith
welcoming service - then I suggest
visiting (itm anni's.

The owner of (iio\anni's
is John Moisis. From my perspec-
tive as a chef, John is tltc ideal
ow tier: pleasant, ohsen ant. ltnd
very hands-on. Joliti is open (as In
lorthcointng and way out of the
close! i. amusing. and very consci-
cntious about his guests. He could
not have been nicer or made us feel
more at case. We were seated
promptly. and even thotigh the
restaurant was busy. John took time
to visit with us. He volunteered
inlormatioti about his business. his
history in the Bellows Falls area.
and his plans for (iiovanni's. Best
of all. he had us latighing in tin
titne.

Iv. as asked to re\ new (inn anni's

The nienti was simple
atid utipretentious. The food is not
very different from most
Atnericani/.ed ltaliari restaurants:
fried appetizers and soups, salads.
pastas, grinders and pi‘!/as. We
ordered appeti/.er.s of fried calatnari
and ltalian Wedditig Soup with tiny
veal and pork meatballs. a (heck
.salad. and two pasta dishes: chicken
cacciatore and a grilled chicken atid
angel hair pasta.

The appeti7.er.s‘ were hot
and freshly prepared. The soup was

brothy and just right for the cold
evening outside. The calamari was
fried perfectly and served crisp with
a warm marinara sauce. The portion
size was just right. l ordered a
Greek salad that was large enough
for two people. it was lightly
dressed and topped with lightly salt-
ed feta cheese. black. salty marinat-
ed olives without the pits. cucum-
bers and red onion. The lettuce was
crisp and fresh. rather than the yel-
lowed and limp iceberg lettuce usu-
ally served as pan of a green salad.

The entrees were both
served with red sauce. The chicken
cacciatore was flavored with green
peppers. garlic and onions. And as
with most good Italian food. the
chicken was more seasoning than
main focus of the meal. The same
was true of the grilled chicken. The
ponions were very adequate; the
dishes were served hot. Afterwards.
I ordered coconut cake for dessert.
and John insisted on also sending
over a complimentary slice of
chocolate cake. Both homemade
dessens were wonderful — just like
mom used to riiake. They were rich
and sweet without being cloying.

The service was a bit
nished. but the server made numer-
ous efforts to ask about our food
and our needs. The atnbiencc of the
restaurant was unpretentious. and
there was plenty of lighting. white
tablecloths. and candlelight. The
background music was unobtrusive.
lt was a typical Vermont restaurant
with one exception ~ John Moisis.
He really made ours a dining expe-
rience worth repeating. Watching
him make everyone comfortable -
greeting them at the door, seating
them. and thanking them at the end
of their evening — makes ttie want a
John for my restaurants! He spoke
to every table attd tnade sure the
guests‘ needs were met.

In addition to a restau-
rant. there is a complete bar. and
John is planning entertainment for
the weekends (his 89-year-old

mother thinks the restaurants suc-
cess will be assured “if he brings
the boys in!“ Go PFLAG momll).
John has a dance area set up with
mirrored balls and lights. so I can
imagine a neighborhood watering
hole and restaurant that just hap
pens to mingle straight couples with
local lesbians and gays. Wllh its
dance floor. bar and multi-leveled
seating. this will make a great place
for a holiday or work party.

John Moisis makes no
apologies for being gay. and doesn’t
need to. His guests are going to be
well taken care of in every way.
Good service and guest satisfaction
are about making people comfort-
able and relaxed. Giovanni‘s makes
the grade. For Southern
Vennonters. and any gays or les-
bians who want to be taken care of
when dining out. take a ride to
Ascutney!

Giovanni‘s can be found
on the Old Route 5 in Ascutney. a
shon half-mile or so from Exit 8 of
I-91 . It is closed on Mondays and
Tuesdays. Like all Vermont restau-
rants. early seating seems to be
dominated by an older crowd and
families. so you may want to con-
sider going later in the evening.
Give John a call at (802) 674-9400
with any questions about seating.
Enjoy! V

Tom Birens is a chef-instructor at
NEC I C ommon.r. He lire: with his
partner in Belhel.

nag;

Oral HIV testing

Bxaifugfon
36'! Pea7!.5’l7eet

/Holidays 4-7pm
802-653-2437

./llortzrelier
7311142}: 51: Stare 401
1-‘rt.’ /'27:. 7 and 21 2-5

800-6451-2:67

 

Was it
your new
years
resolution
too?

Rufiattd
27.$’ozzb§ 1113:}: Street

Wedmzsdey 10 am -Ipm
.902-77.5-5884

5:. /0/msbwy
1235}7o.spz'taIDr. Swb: 1
waarmdayaapm
802-748-9061

MVERMONTJ

FREE, ANONYMOUS, NO NEEDLES,
NO EXCUSES

WOMENBTCHOICE

GYNECOLOGIC ASSOCIATES

Cheryl A. Gibson M.D.
Susan F. Smith M.D.

23 Mansfield Avenue
Burlington, Vermont 05401
802-863-9001

Fax: 802-862-9637

Nancy Ellen Judd, MA

Licensed Clinical Mental Health Counselor
COUNSELING AND PSYCHOTHEPAPY

l802l863.2084

2 CHURCH STREET. BURUNGTON VT 05401

TEENS l ADULTS l INDIVIDUALS l COUPLES