BY PIPPIN

ravehearts is, first and
foremost, a history of
men’s fashion as it relates

to sexism. While writer and cura-
tor Andrew Bolton would be
unlikely to characterize the work
this way, a constant thread in the
essays accompanying the hundreds
of truly beautiful photographs is
that men in skirts are still men and
still masculine. According to
Bolton, they should not be penal-
ized by accusations of femininity
for the sartorial choice of wearing
a non—bifurcated article of clothing
to cover their legs.

As Bolton notes in the
introduction, “We are not con-
cerned with drag, transvestism or
cross-dressing. This is because
these are strategies primarily used
for the exploration of camp and
feminine identities  this book is
primarily concerned with the con-
struction of masculine identities.”
It is unfortunate that Bolton’s
work insists on emphasizing (oyer
and over again) that men in skirts
are still masculine, strong, and by
implication, heterosexual. The text
clearly is reinforcing a solidly
entrenched gender binary. Bolton
negates the power of the images to
challenge traditional gender roles
and identities, and does not
attempt to break down barriers
between men and women that
throw fashion roadblocks into the
path of queer liberation.

That said, the book is a
fascinating history of men’s fash-
ion as long as one reads carefully
for the sub-text and draws one’s
own conclusions. The images,
from a concurrent exhibit at
London’s Victoria and Albert
Museum and New York’s
Metropolitan Museum of Art, are
startling and beautiful.

The book is divided into
five sections — Men and Trouser
Tyranny, Skirts in History,
Exoticism, The Kilt, and
Subcultural Style. Each section of
the book, with the exception of the
first (which focuses on the politi-

 

cal and health movements to free
up the space between men’s legs),
takes the reader on an ‘evolution-
ary journey through history from
the Egyptian high kingdoms up to
the couture designers of today,
including Versace, Gaultier, and
Westwood. -

The book is clearly writ-
ten for a largely white, western
audience, as shown by the odd
breakdown of chapters. Skins in
History focuses exclusively on
western European fashion;
Exoticism focuses on the history
of fashion in Africa and Asia.

Bolton does note that the
revival of the kilt by George IV in
the early nineteenth century was a
form of self-exoticisation, but
even in this chapter it is made
clear that the nineteenth-century
popularity of the kilt was largely
about the very rich and very pow-
erful taking on the attributes of
those whom they had subdued in
war and politics — in this case the
Highland clans of Scotland.

It is not until the very
final pages that Bolton acknowl-
edges the important role that queer
men have played in the history of
men’s fashion and in particular,
the role of the skirt. In his essay
on Subcultural Style Bolton dis-
cusses the impact of glam rockers
like David Bowie and the conse-
quent development of the punk
scene, the New Romantics, and
later, grunge. But even in noting
the impact of such figures as the
bisexual Bowie and Culture Club
leader Boy George, Bolton retains
the need to reassure his readers
that these seminal figures were
masculine men and not trying to

' be seen as women or using fashion

to transgress gender roles.

Bolton quotes Bowie on
the controversy surrounding his
appearance in a pre-Raphaelite-
style dress on the cover of his

kirts

1971 album, The Man Who Sold
The World. “You must under-
stand,” Bowie is reported as say-
ing, “that it’s not a woman’s dress.
It’s a man’s dress. The important
fact is that I don’t have to drag up
 I don’t wear dresses all the
time, either. I change every day.
I’m not outrageous. I’m David
Bowie.”

Even Boy George, one of
the heroes of 19803 popular queer
liberation, has his political impact
somewhat lessened when Bolton
says of him, “For all his sartorial
dilettantism, Boy George, as his
name suggests, was usually quick
to distance himself from the act of
drag or transvestism.” He goes on
to quote the pop star, “I dress in a
similar way to a priest or an arch-
bishop. I wear robes, not dresses,
and to be a transvestite, you must
wear women’s clothes. I don’t.”
He added, “I’m not fighting an
oppressed need to be a woman.

I I’m proud to be a man.”

While onemust certainly
take Boy George at his word, it is
distressing that so much stunning
creativity need be limited by his
political (and one might think,
economic) need to ensure that his
sartorial transgression is limited to
appearances and does not chal-
lenge the inherent sexism that
goes along with our modern cul-
ture’s need to keep genders strictly
regulated, whether you are wear-
ing a skirt or not. V

Pippin is a radical faerie who
enjoys dressing up and isn ‘t afraid
to mix up her pronouns. He can be
reached at pippin@sover. net.

 

cgtrlz bite out.

“sex.—ed for the real world’’..

Spice up your love life with an in-home romance party! If you "‘
have always been curious about the various edible

lotions, romantic products and sensuous bedroom
toys that are available, but didn't know where to go

then look no further! Hosting a git-lz mite outm party

offers the convenience of shopping for these items

in the comfort of your own home in a fun and non-

threatening atmosphere! As a host you will receive 10% of
your party sales in free products!

Visit us on the web at www.girlzniteout.net
Mention this ad for 10% off of any order placed online!

We are currently looking for distributors in your area! Make
full-time money working part-time hours! "-

866-GNO-PARTY (866-466-7278)
jenn@girlzniteout.net

Gay owned & operated
travel agency
proudly serving New
England & beyond...

Toll Free: 800-705-7429
Local: 802-453-2131
E-mail: travel@madriver.com
Website: www.tai.4mydeals.com
Member of ASTA & IGLTA

Exclusive
otter tor
IIITM
readers!

Offering Cruises, Vacations
and GLBT Honeymoons to...

...Mexico
...The Caribbean
...Alaska
...Europe
...Australia
...Thailand
...Hawall
...South Pacific
...Bermuda
...and more!

Mention this ad and receive a $25
per person discount on selected
cruise and vacation packages.
Please call for detaus!

Book your next vacation through
us and receive personalized and
caring service from a member of
our community in Vermont. We
specialize in all aspects of gay,

lesbian, and “mainstream”
vacatlon travel.

Please call Jared Buker
800-705-7429
Travel Adventures lntl.
Lincoln, Vermont

   9"
,"‘=Our iE"a.x:niiy Reunian"
 azii.1¢:=.a::rx.1: an.;:.c::‘t:ic:>-'a:1..

 
 

  

"wax-Icing
for qua;-at
ygtuflx
szxzee
21.989

£“‘::x=id.a:'y', Iktlaxc-21 26¢}:
¥TzK=rw?h.a1.et#a!av ¢-‘ahctllwrv
£31113»-db 31- ixurltngton.

fiiiaing $¢::.a1.¢
‘Tickataz $1.5-.?+G

8102--7855 -!!fi’Ii;."Zl M Qi}3'RtGHT‘%f{.ar*g2

‘-.’.Z’'---- 3%.